October 21, 2008
After dining at Citronelle last December, we wanted to check out Richard's less formal (and less expensive) Central. It features a mixture of French bistro food as well as gourmet takes on American comfort food. Laurie and I started with one of their cocktails, and we enjoyed them both. I ordered the ginger daiquiri and Laurie ordered the grape caipirinha. The daiquiri was tart, not too sweet, and pleasantly gingery.
We shared the gougeres/cheese puffs (mini cheese popovers made from pâte a choux) and the onion and lardon tart for appetizers. I liked the cheesy, salty gougeres; Laurie did not. We both, however, absolutely loved the tart. Onions and bacon on a thin, flaky crust, drizzled with sour cream and chives - this was a great way to start a meal.
For the main courses, I went French and Laurie went American: The braised rabbit with spaetzle and carrots and the bacon cheesburger with fries. The rabbit came in two cuts, a piece of braised dark meat and sliced, lightly breaded lighter meat. Served with a mustardy sauce, the meat is familiar enough for fans of chicken but different enough to be more interesting than that ubiquitious bird. The carrots were the best I've ever had. It's hard to get excited about carrots but they were that good. I should've asked about them; I'm not sure what kind of stock and/or other ingredients were used to prepare them but they were fantastic. To complement my entree, I ordered a delicious Belgian ale on tap (though I didn't catch the name - sorry!).
A criticism of Central is the heavy-handedness with the salt. When I mentioned at the beginning of my entree that my food was salty, our server quickly offered to replace my dish. I didn't think it was worth sending back. As I eagerly finished the rabbit and carrots, I realized that the spaetzle was the main offender in the salt category. The fresh tarragon (one of my least favorite herbs) sealed the deal - I didn't finish it.
Laurie's bacon cheeseburger was the best burger either of us have had. From the housemade roll to the thin, fried onion circles, from the excellent quality beef, bacon, and cheese, if any burger and fries are going to command $18, it's this one. Laurie found the fries to be too salty and didn't like the seasoning. I thought they were fine but not great. (We prefer the ultra-crispy fries at Brasserie Les Halles.)
We shared the chocolate mousse. Between the crunchy chocolate candy on top and the raspberry center, I felt these distracted from the mousse, which was otherwise creamy and tasty.
Our meal at Central was good and very rich. We were both exceedingly full at the end of our meal.
http://www.centralmichelrichard.com
Thursday, November 6, 2008
Thursday, September 25, 2008
VOLT - Frederick, MD
August 30, 2008
I've been excited about the opening of VOLT since I first heard about it in the spring. A sophisticated, modern menu that features local ingredients by a young chef with an impressive resume (Charlie Palmer Steak in DC, Aureole in NYC, graduate of the Culinary Institute of America), right in Frederick sounded almost too good to be true. Some of the courses at VOLT were easily the best I've had in a Frederick restaurant in my nearly 11 years living in the area. The meal, however, was marred by some amateurish flaws.
The beginning of the evening was both unfortunate and unacceptable. I booked reservations for the Chef's Dining Room, where patrons choose between a five-course or seven-course tasting menu (the four-course a la carte menu is served in the main dining room). Our reservation was for 7:30pm. We were not seated until 8:15pm. Then we were given cocktail menus - as if we hadn't had ample time to explore the selection (some of us were on drink number two). Later, I had to ask if we could place our order. Our table chose the seven-course tasting menu ($89, wine pairings extra). It was nearly 9:00pm before our server brought out the bread and canapes before the first course.
The breads were good and interesting: A knot roll and a bacon and rosemary bread. The canapes were bite size and came on spoons and included one of the highlights of the meal. The creamy red pepper custard with trout roe and ginger was absolutely phenomenal.
The first course was a selection of heirloom tomatoes with olive oil and tomato sorbet. I'm not a big fan of (nearly) plain raw tomatoes in the first place but even the tomato lovers failed to rave at this one. The tomato sorbet was intense in a unpleasant way: One of our friends at our table compared the flavor to Campbell's tomato soup.
The second course was shiitake veloute with pine nut sabayon, chili oil, and flowering basil. I thought it was intriguing, original, or tasty. My wife loved it.
Course number three was a fine, if uneventful, halibut dish.
The fourth course, however, was a stunner: Foie gras with melons and vanilla salt. I prefer my foie gras warm (preferably seared) but this was the finest cold foie gras I've had. Foie gras is often paired with a sweet ingredient such as fruit but I had never had it with melons, which worked in a unique way. The vanilla salt added an appropriate "sweet spice" to the fruit, which contrasted nicely with the savory richness of the foie gras. My wife does not like foie gras so I had this excellent, decadent course twice.
If any of the seven courses were "the main course," the traditionalist in me would say that it would be the beef and potato dish. And this course was easily the most disappointing part of the meal since the 45-minute late start. For all of the excellent flavors and concepts of the previous courses, this course failed due to fundamentals: Both the beef and potato puree were very over salted.
The sixth course breathed life into a normally staid course: Cheese. The raw cocoa and chopped pistachios elevated the cheese course to a level that exceeded my expectations.
The seventh and final course ended the meal with my preferred dessert of choice: Something involving chocolate. The chocolate and hazelnut pave was delicious, and like most of the other courses, the presentation was modern and inviting.
Despite the lengthy initial wait, the staff in the bar and restaurant were, as one of my friends later wrote, "friendly and intelligent about their craft." I ordered the wine pairings and enjoyed them, as well as the descriptions by the sommelier, who sought to educate but not condescend. And as a beer aficionado, I loved the pairing of the cheese course with not a wine but with Brooklyn Brown Ale. Well done.
The Chef's Dining Room was popular with most of our table, described as "very comfortable yet very classy." My only complaint is that half of the guests have their backs to the open kitchen.
If VOLT was in DC, the distance and desire to try some other restaurants, along with the problems described above and the price tag, would make a return trip prohibitive. Yet because the culinary highs were so high, and the restaurant is so close, I can see myself returning in about six months, hoping to see if the kinks were all worked out.
I've been excited about the opening of VOLT since I first heard about it in the spring. A sophisticated, modern menu that features local ingredients by a young chef with an impressive resume (Charlie Palmer Steak in DC, Aureole in NYC, graduate of the Culinary Institute of America), right in Frederick sounded almost too good to be true. Some of the courses at VOLT were easily the best I've had in a Frederick restaurant in my nearly 11 years living in the area. The meal, however, was marred by some amateurish flaws.
The beginning of the evening was both unfortunate and unacceptable. I booked reservations for the Chef's Dining Room, where patrons choose between a five-course or seven-course tasting menu (the four-course a la carte menu is served in the main dining room). Our reservation was for 7:30pm. We were not seated until 8:15pm. Then we were given cocktail menus - as if we hadn't had ample time to explore the selection (some of us were on drink number two). Later, I had to ask if we could place our order. Our table chose the seven-course tasting menu ($89, wine pairings extra). It was nearly 9:00pm before our server brought out the bread and canapes before the first course.
The breads were good and interesting: A knot roll and a bacon and rosemary bread. The canapes were bite size and came on spoons and included one of the highlights of the meal. The creamy red pepper custard with trout roe and ginger was absolutely phenomenal.
The first course was a selection of heirloom tomatoes with olive oil and tomato sorbet. I'm not a big fan of (nearly) plain raw tomatoes in the first place but even the tomato lovers failed to rave at this one. The tomato sorbet was intense in a unpleasant way: One of our friends at our table compared the flavor to Campbell's tomato soup.
The second course was shiitake veloute with pine nut sabayon, chili oil, and flowering basil. I thought it was intriguing, original, or tasty. My wife loved it.
Course number three was a fine, if uneventful, halibut dish.
The fourth course, however, was a stunner: Foie gras with melons and vanilla salt. I prefer my foie gras warm (preferably seared) but this was the finest cold foie gras I've had. Foie gras is often paired with a sweet ingredient such as fruit but I had never had it with melons, which worked in a unique way. The vanilla salt added an appropriate "sweet spice" to the fruit, which contrasted nicely with the savory richness of the foie gras. My wife does not like foie gras so I had this excellent, decadent course twice.
If any of the seven courses were "the main course," the traditionalist in me would say that it would be the beef and potato dish. And this course was easily the most disappointing part of the meal since the 45-minute late start. For all of the excellent flavors and concepts of the previous courses, this course failed due to fundamentals: Both the beef and potato puree were very over salted.
The sixth course breathed life into a normally staid course: Cheese. The raw cocoa and chopped pistachios elevated the cheese course to a level that exceeded my expectations.
The seventh and final course ended the meal with my preferred dessert of choice: Something involving chocolate. The chocolate and hazelnut pave was delicious, and like most of the other courses, the presentation was modern and inviting.
Despite the lengthy initial wait, the staff in the bar and restaurant were, as one of my friends later wrote, "friendly and intelligent about their craft." I ordered the wine pairings and enjoyed them, as well as the descriptions by the sommelier, who sought to educate but not condescend. And as a beer aficionado, I loved the pairing of the cheese course with not a wine but with Brooklyn Brown Ale. Well done.
The Chef's Dining Room was popular with most of our table, described as "very comfortable yet very classy." My only complaint is that half of the guests have their backs to the open kitchen.
If VOLT was in DC, the distance and desire to try some other restaurants, along with the problems described above and the price tag, would make a return trip prohibitive. Yet because the culinary highs were so high, and the restaurant is so close, I can see myself returning in about six months, hoping to see if the kinks were all worked out.
Monday, August 18, 2008
Spaghetti Sauce with Summer Garden Tomatoes
Even more local than using the farmer's market foods, I've made two batches of spaghetti sauce using tomatoes and jalapenos from the gardens of family and friends as well as herbs from my herb garden. Thanks to Aunt Sue and Uncle Mike and Kelly and Joe.
Summer Garden Spaghetti Sauce
The strategy here is to be flexible with what you have. The jalapenos, for example, stand in for the more traditional crushed red pepper flakes. The recipe calls for 4 1/2 cups of coarsely chopped tomatoes only because that's what I had during the second batch.
4 1/2 cups coarsely chopped tomatoes (including seeds, not including juices)
2 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil (feel free to use more for a richer sauce and/or stir in some butter at the end)
7 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped
2 small jalapeno peppers, coarsely chopped (include seeds and veins for more heat)
15 fresh basil leaves
2 tablespoons fresh oregano leaves
3/4 teaspoon salt
black pepper to taste
Heat the oil to medium-low and add the garlic and jalapeno and cook for about five minutes. Do not burn.
Add the rest of the ingredients and cook for awhile (10, 20, 30 minutes - whatever you want), allowing the sauce to simmer uncovered and thicken slightly.
Puree in a food processor or blender (use caution when blending hot liquids).
As far as pasta, I'm a big fan of angel hair.
Summer Garden Spaghetti Sauce
The strategy here is to be flexible with what you have. The jalapenos, for example, stand in for the more traditional crushed red pepper flakes. The recipe calls for 4 1/2 cups of coarsely chopped tomatoes only because that's what I had during the second batch.
4 1/2 cups coarsely chopped tomatoes (including seeds, not including juices)
2 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil (feel free to use more for a richer sauce and/or stir in some butter at the end)
7 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped
2 small jalapeno peppers, coarsely chopped (include seeds and veins for more heat)
15 fresh basil leaves
2 tablespoons fresh oregano leaves
3/4 teaspoon salt
black pepper to taste
Heat the oil to medium-low and add the garlic and jalapeno and cook for about five minutes. Do not burn.
Add the rest of the ingredients and cook for awhile (10, 20, 30 minutes - whatever you want), allowing the sauce to simmer uncovered and thicken slightly.
Puree in a food processor or blender (use caution when blending hot liquids).
As far as pasta, I'm a big fan of angel hair.
Brasserie Les Halles - Washington, D.C.
August 13, 2008
My wife and I took our four-year old daughter to check out dinosaur bones at the Smithsonian Natural History Museum. We also used it as an excuse to eat at a nice restaurant in DC!
The original New York City location of Les Halles is best known for being the last restaurant where Anthony Bourdain was a chef before Kitchen Confidential made him a star. Les Halles is a French bistro with a focus on steaks ("American Beef - French Style") as well as some other classics of French food (cassoulet, mussels and frites, steak au poivre).
I started with an appetizer portion of steak tartare, my first time eating the dish. At Les Halles, steak tartare is prepared table side with the server stirring in a raw quail egg, Worcestershire sauce, and the amount of Tabasco to your liking. In addition, anchovies, capers, cornichons, raw onions, and flat-leaf parsley are offered to be stirred into the meat. I remembered once as a child tasting raw ground beef and it not having a lot of flavor so I ordered mine with medium spiciness and everything except the raw onions. I enjoyed the dish, but I believe I my choices led to an overseasoned tartare. This "appetizer" portion was probably about six ounces of ground beef. With the mixed-in ingredients, as well as a small salad and two pieces of toasted baguette, this appetizer portion could make for an affordable lunch ($8). I didn't finish mine, knowing that I had a (cooked) steak entree coming.
I ordered the hanger steak with shallot sauce with frites (it also came with a small salad). The fries were excellent: Hot and very crispy (twice fried?). The steak and sauce were both rich, well-seasoned, and nicely flavored. I thoroughly enjoyed my entree.
The downside of the meal was my daughter's chicken tenders. She enjoyed the crispy fries but the chicken tenders were terrible, an afterthought which probably came out of a box out of the freezer. What made this even more frustrating was the $9.50 price tag. (Kids' menu chicken tenders don't have to be poor: Dogfish Head Brewing in Gaithersburg has excellent tenders.)
This was my second meal at Les Halles and I enjoyed them both. The restaurant, however, gets no love from neither The Washington Post nor The Washingtonian. I've been following both publications' dining guides for two years now, and Brasserie Les Halles has been absent from both. In addition, when the Post reviewed hamburgers at sit-down restaurants within the last year or two, Les Halles' burger finished at or near the bottom (by the way, Central Michel Richard's was #1, Palena's was #2). It doesn't seem to matter - it was packed for lunch on this summer Wednesday.
My wife and I took our four-year old daughter to check out dinosaur bones at the Smithsonian Natural History Museum. We also used it as an excuse to eat at a nice restaurant in DC!
The original New York City location of Les Halles is best known for being the last restaurant where Anthony Bourdain was a chef before Kitchen Confidential made him a star. Les Halles is a French bistro with a focus on steaks ("American Beef - French Style") as well as some other classics of French food (cassoulet, mussels and frites, steak au poivre).
I started with an appetizer portion of steak tartare, my first time eating the dish. At Les Halles, steak tartare is prepared table side with the server stirring in a raw quail egg, Worcestershire sauce, and the amount of Tabasco to your liking. In addition, anchovies, capers, cornichons, raw onions, and flat-leaf parsley are offered to be stirred into the meat. I remembered once as a child tasting raw ground beef and it not having a lot of flavor so I ordered mine with medium spiciness and everything except the raw onions. I enjoyed the dish, but I believe I my choices led to an overseasoned tartare. This "appetizer" portion was probably about six ounces of ground beef. With the mixed-in ingredients, as well as a small salad and two pieces of toasted baguette, this appetizer portion could make for an affordable lunch ($8). I didn't finish mine, knowing that I had a (cooked) steak entree coming.
I ordered the hanger steak with shallot sauce with frites (it also came with a small salad). The fries were excellent: Hot and very crispy (twice fried?). The steak and sauce were both rich, well-seasoned, and nicely flavored. I thoroughly enjoyed my entree.
The downside of the meal was my daughter's chicken tenders. She enjoyed the crispy fries but the chicken tenders were terrible, an afterthought which probably came out of a box out of the freezer. What made this even more frustrating was the $9.50 price tag. (Kids' menu chicken tenders don't have to be poor: Dogfish Head Brewing in Gaithersburg has excellent tenders.)
This was my second meal at Les Halles and I enjoyed them both. The restaurant, however, gets no love from neither The Washington Post nor The Washingtonian. I've been following both publications' dining guides for two years now, and Brasserie Les Halles has been absent from both. In addition, when the Post reviewed hamburgers at sit-down restaurants within the last year or two, Les Halles' burger finished at or near the bottom (by the way, Central Michel Richard's was #1, Palena's was #2). It doesn't seem to matter - it was packed for lunch on this summer Wednesday.
Ed's Country Bakery - Frederick, MD
I was first turned on to Ed's County Bakery at the Shab Row farmer's market on Thursday afternoons. I enjoyed the double chocolate cookies, chocolate cupcakes, and the citrus cooler (orange-lemon-limeade). For my son's first birthday, we ordered two 1/4 sheet cakes (one yellow, and one chocolate). They both tasted and looked great and the prices are affordable.
The bakery also is at the Walkersville farmer's market on Wednesdays.
Ed's Country Bakery
4309 Cap Stine Road
Frederick, MD 21703
301-788-5409 (phone)
301-663-0482 (fax)
www.edscountrybakery.com
edo@edscountrybakery.com
The bakery also is at the Walkersville farmer's market on Wednesdays.
Ed's Country Bakery
4309 Cap Stine Road
Frederick, MD 21703
301-788-5409 (phone)
301-663-0482 (fax)
www.edscountrybakery.com
edo@edscountrybakery.com
My Thai - Frederick, MD
July 31, 2008
I'm glad that I ordered another appetizer because this review would be pretty negative without it.
I ordered one of the lunch specials, which includes a spring roll. The roll (I ordered mine with chicken) was crispy and flavorful. The texture inside was creamy due to potato, which made the roll memorable as well as very good.
I also ordered the larb gai appetizer, which is "minced chicken tossed in cilantro, mint, red onion, and lime juice" served on a bed of greens. I'm intrigued by the combination of cilantro and mint, which is also used in Indian cuisine. The herbs are both strong and distinctive, yet they pair well together. The larb gai was delicious. When I told my server, she agreed and said that she sometimes eats it for lunch.
My entree was disappointing. I ordered phad prik sod with duck, which is "stir-fried with chili, snow peas, onion, scallions, and red bell pepper." The main problem was the overuse of soy sauce. With Asian dishes, I often use the plain white rice to soak up the sauce. I didn't do that with the phad prik sod.
For fans (or opponents) of chili heat, My Thai lets the diner know on the menu between "mildly spicy," "medium spicy," and "very spicy." They also are happy to season any dish to diner's tastes.
I plan on returning to My Thai, based on the strength of the larb gai and the spring roll but I'll be wary of salt when ordering my next entree.
I'm glad that I ordered another appetizer because this review would be pretty negative without it.
I ordered one of the lunch specials, which includes a spring roll. The roll (I ordered mine with chicken) was crispy and flavorful. The texture inside was creamy due to potato, which made the roll memorable as well as very good.
I also ordered the larb gai appetizer, which is "minced chicken tossed in cilantro, mint, red onion, and lime juice" served on a bed of greens. I'm intrigued by the combination of cilantro and mint, which is also used in Indian cuisine. The herbs are both strong and distinctive, yet they pair well together. The larb gai was delicious. When I told my server, she agreed and said that she sometimes eats it for lunch.
My entree was disappointing. I ordered phad prik sod with duck, which is "stir-fried with chili, snow peas, onion, scallions, and red bell pepper." The main problem was the overuse of soy sauce. With Asian dishes, I often use the plain white rice to soak up the sauce. I didn't do that with the phad prik sod.
For fans (or opponents) of chili heat, My Thai lets the diner know on the menu between "mildly spicy," "medium spicy," and "very spicy." They also are happy to season any dish to diner's tastes.
I plan on returning to My Thai, based on the strength of the larb gai and the spring roll but I'll be wary of salt when ordering my next entree.
Tuesday, July 29, 2008
Clay Oven - Frederick, MD
July 9, 2008
When my wife and I began eating Indian food in Frederick some years ago, we'd go to Bombay Grill, on Market Street, downtown. For variety, we then tried Nilgiris off of Rt. 85 and that became our go-to Indian place. Earlier this month, we tried Clay Oven on Rt. 40 and had a good lunch.
Our preferred meal for Indian is lunch buffets, due to the selection, price, and how many Indian dishes (which are slow-cooked in sauces) excel when kept hot for long periods of time . Clay Oven's lunch buffet and dining room are smaller than those of the aforementioned competitors. One thing we appreciated was the consistent and noticeable spiciness of the food at Clay Oven. Perhaps in an attempt to appeal to a wider crowd, sometimes the chili peppers seem a bit buried at Bombay Grill and Nilgiris. Another (surprising) difference was the inclusion of a beef dish at Clay Oven's lunch buffet.
Most of the dishes really worked well at Clay Oven. The chef's use of spices (not just chilis), created many flavorful offerings. I enjoyed the chicken tikka makhani, chicken curry, navratan korma ("fresh vegetables simmered in a spiced creamy sauce with nuts"), and baigan bhurha (eggplant and onions). On the other hand, the dal makhani, a lentil dish, was one of the few bland dishes, needing more spice and more salt. The vegetable samosa was dense and unpleasant. The naan was acceptable.
In comparing my one visit to Clay Oven with my multiple visits to Nilgiris, Clay Oven's dishes were generally better seasoned. Most of Clay Oven's dishes were well spiced and appropriately creamy and rich. On the other hand, the chef(s) at Nilgiris can sometimes have a heavy hand with the oil and the salt. Yet the buffet at Nilgiris has an ever-changing variety of dishes (often including goat!) while Bombay Grill and Clay Oven seem to play it safer with their offerings. Perhaps this is why we tend to see more Indian patrons at Nilgiris. Nilgiris also has great naan, blistered from the hot oven and brushed with butter.
This was my first lunch at Clay Oven and I look forward to returning. I also need to return to Bombay Grill - it's been awhile.
When my wife and I began eating Indian food in Frederick some years ago, we'd go to Bombay Grill, on Market Street, downtown. For variety, we then tried Nilgiris off of Rt. 85 and that became our go-to Indian place. Earlier this month, we tried Clay Oven on Rt. 40 and had a good lunch.
Our preferred meal for Indian is lunch buffets, due to the selection, price, and how many Indian dishes (which are slow-cooked in sauces) excel when kept hot for long periods of time . Clay Oven's lunch buffet and dining room are smaller than those of the aforementioned competitors. One thing we appreciated was the consistent and noticeable spiciness of the food at Clay Oven. Perhaps in an attempt to appeal to a wider crowd, sometimes the chili peppers seem a bit buried at Bombay Grill and Nilgiris. Another (surprising) difference was the inclusion of a beef dish at Clay Oven's lunch buffet.
Most of the dishes really worked well at Clay Oven. The chef's use of spices (not just chilis), created many flavorful offerings. I enjoyed the chicken tikka makhani, chicken curry, navratan korma ("fresh vegetables simmered in a spiced creamy sauce with nuts"), and baigan bhurha (eggplant and onions). On the other hand, the dal makhani, a lentil dish, was one of the few bland dishes, needing more spice and more salt. The vegetable samosa was dense and unpleasant. The naan was acceptable.
In comparing my one visit to Clay Oven with my multiple visits to Nilgiris, Clay Oven's dishes were generally better seasoned. Most of Clay Oven's dishes were well spiced and appropriately creamy and rich. On the other hand, the chef(s) at Nilgiris can sometimes have a heavy hand with the oil and the salt. Yet the buffet at Nilgiris has an ever-changing variety of dishes (often including goat!) while Bombay Grill and Clay Oven seem to play it safer with their offerings. Perhaps this is why we tend to see more Indian patrons at Nilgiris. Nilgiris also has great naan, blistered from the hot oven and brushed with butter.
This was my first lunch at Clay Oven and I look forward to returning. I also need to return to Bombay Grill - it's been awhile.
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