Thursday, December 27, 2007

Lucky Corner Vietnamese - Frederick, MD

November 16 and 30, 2007


In my nearly ten years in the Frederick area, I've seen Vietnamese restaurants come and go (my wife and I still miss Old Town Saigon on Rt. 40). Lucky Corner, on the corner of N. Market and 7th Street, has been our go-to Vietnamese place for a few years now. On both November visits we started with the grilled lemongrass beef appetizer. The small stuffed beef rolls come topped with fried scallions and chopped peanuts both of which are more than just a garnish. The rolls, topping, and dipping sauce nicely bring together the classic Southeast Asian flavor combination of sweet, sour, spicy, and salty. One inconsistency we saw in both visits was that some rolls were moist and some were a bit dry on the outside.

One of my favorite things about Vietnamese cuisine is the combination of Asian and French elements. Sometimes when I order, I seek out such dishes. On the 16th I ordered the Saigon beef stew, which brought together East and West. I chose rice noodles to accompany the dish (egg noodles were an option) and the stew was what I hoped for: chunks of beef and carrots in a sauce but with Vietnamese flavors, including the usual accompanying condiments to pho, such as bean sprouts, lime, cilantro, chile pepper, and srichacha. This dish would be perfect for one who had never had Vietnamese food and was skeptical.

On the 30th, I ordered another special, the fried tilapia. This dish was perfect for someone who was dragged unwillingly to a Vietnamese restaurant - this, however, does not describe me. It was a plate of fried, golden-brown food: fried fish with potato croquettes. Rounding out this highly conservative, very Western dish was a salad with a decidedly non-Asian vinaigrette. The croquettes and salad were fine and uneventful but the fish was another story. It was crispy on the outside and moist on the inside, executed well and simply. The fish was accompanied by the only real nod to Vietnamese food, a piquant dipping sauce. The problem with the fish was that the tilapia was unlike any tilapia I've ever had. If it was indeed tilapia, the fish must have been raised in a horribly crowded "farm." I would've been justified in sending it back, but hungry and admiring the crispy crust and moist white meat, I told myself it was fried catfish and ate most of it. After a review of two entree specials in two weeks, I might return with a review of regular menu items. Check back later.
Rarely daring, my wife got the caramel pork in hot pot, which is what she gets every time. One time it was better than the other, owing that to less salt. The dish is fine but it was better at Old Town Saigon, which is what my wife ordered. Always.

Perhaps Lucky Corner's finest attribute is the service. The restaurant is small yet they are always extremely accommodating to our two small children. The service is exceptionally friendly and polite; they seem to honestly care how your dining experience was. They'll gladly steam some plain broccoli (off the menu) for my picky daughter and are there in time to offer me another Singha (Thai lager).



Lucky Corner Vietnamese Finest Restaurant
700 N Market St
Frederick, MD 21701
301-624-1005

1 comment:

Coach Long said...

I enjoy reading your reviews. They are well written and informative. I would like to see more reviews, especially if you have experience with some of my favorites: roasted goose, sauerkraut/bacon soup, and/or high-end DC restaurants.